Sort unlabeled keys by what you can confirm about them, not by how they look. List the locks you actually need keys for, test each key gently at the lock it might fit, and split the results into four groups: confirmed, probable, unknown, and likely obsolete. Bring only the confirmed and probable keys for copying, each with a short note.
Sort by evidence, not by appearance
Two keys can share a color and a head shape and still open completely different locks. The cuts along the blade decide what a key opens, and those cuts are hard to compare by eye. Sorting by looks tends to produce tidy piles that mean nothing.
Sorting by evidence works better. A key you just turned in your own front door is a known quantity. A key that came off a former roommate's ring is a guess. The goal is a short, labeled set of keys worth copying, not a duplicate of the whole drawer.
Start from the locks you need to open
Before you touch the pile, write down every lock you need a key for. A household list often includes the apartment door, any deadbolt, the mailbox, the building entry, and perhaps a storage cage or bike room. A property manager adds shared doors and utility rooms. A small business adds its front and back doors and any gates or cabinets.
That list turns the job around. Instead of asking what each mystery key belongs to, you ask which locks still lack a known key. A lock left unmatched at the end is useful information too.
Next to each lock, note who controls its keys. If you rent, or the lock is on a shared building door, the landlord or building management may decide who gets copies. Check with them before you plan duplicates of those keys.
In what order should you sort the keys?
- Gather every key into one place, including spare rings and old coat pockets.
- Set aside anything that isn't a door, mailbox, or gate key, such as luggage keys, key-shaped trinkets, and keys for a car or bike you no longer own.
- Take the rest to the locks on your list and try each key in the lock it most plausibly fits. Insert it fully and turn with light pressure.
- Write down the result for each key before the next one goes in.
- Group the keys and mark each group with a tag, an envelope, or a strip of tape with a written label.
Confirmed means the key went in fully and turned the lock smoothly. Probable means the key looks identical to a confirmed key when you hold the two side by side, or it belongs to a lock you couldn't reach today. Unknown means it fit nothing on your list. Likely obsolete means you can tie it to a lock that is gone, such as a previous apartment or a replaced deadbolt.
Test gently. If a key sticks partway, catches, or won't turn smoothly, stop and pull it straight out rather than pushing harder. Forcing a key can bend it or break it off inside the lock, and a stiff lock is a separate question from copying.
Keys you can't place: hold them, don't copy them
Copying an unknown key gives you two mystery keys instead of one. You add clutter and learn nothing about which lock it fits.
Put unknown keys in one labeled envelope with a line about where each was found. Keys often make sense later, when you open a seldom-used gate or an old filing cabinet. You can also bring that envelope and ask Upper East Locksmith about it, keeping in mind that a key alone rarely names its lock.
Likely obsolete keys can usually be set aside. The case worth a second look is a lock you still use whose history is unclear, where old keys from former tenants or staff keep turning up. Rekeying or replacing that lock is a separate conversation from copying, and it may matter more.
What to hand over with the keys
Bring the confirmed group first, then the probable group, with a short note on each key:
- Which lock it opens, in plain words, such as mailbox or back gate
- Who will use the copies and how many you want
- Any markings on the key, written exactly as they appear
- What you don't know, such as "untested, looks identical to the front door key"
Flag any key that looks restricted, such as one stamped with a warning against copying or one with a blade shaped unlike your other keys, and say who gave it to you if you know. If you're unsure whether a particular key is worth bringing, call Upper East Locksmith at (347) 444-9725 and describe it.
Frequently asked questions
What if a key fits the lock but turns stiffly?
A key that fits but turns stiffly belongs in the probable group with a note, not the confirmed group. Stiffness can come from a worn key, a lock that needs attention, or a door rubbing its frame, and you can't tell which from the outside. Stop rather than forcing it, and mention the stiffness when you hand the key over.
Should I copy every key in the drawer to be safe?
Copying every key in a drawer usually creates more keys to track without making any of them more useful. A copy is worth having when you know which lock the original opens and who needs it. Copy the confirmed keys, decide on the probable ones after testing, and keep unknown and obsolete keys in labeled envelopes.
How should I store keys after sorting them?
After sorting, keep everyday keys on a ring or hook labeled with a name your household recognizes, such as "top lock," rather than a full address. Store spares, unknowns, and obsolete keys in separate labeled envelopes in one drawer, and update the labels whenever a lock is changed.
What if I find a key marked 'do not duplicate'?
A key marked "do not duplicate" should go in its own flagged envelope, even if it opens a lock you use daily. The marking signals that whoever issued the key wants control over copies, so find out who that is, such as a landlord, building management, or employer. Mention the marking when you hand the key over.