Some markings on a key head are worth pointing out when you ask for a copy: factory-stamped text or lettering, code-like numbers, and restriction wording such as "Do Not Duplicate." Each one is a hint, not proof. The blade, compared against candidate blanks, decides the match. Painted heads, colored caps, tape, and scratches mostly record the key's history, not its design.
Why head markings are clues to check, not answers
The head of a key is the flat part you hold, and it does no work inside the lock. The blade is what moves the pins. That is the cut shaft that slides into the keyway, the shaped slot in the lock. Anything on the head is a label traveling with the key, and a label can be out of date or simply wrong.
Head markings narrow the search for the right blank, the uncut key a copy is made from. They don't settle it. The blade's profile and grooves decide the match.
Factory marks and marks someone added later
Before reading any mark on a key head, sort it by who put it there.
Factory marks are stamped or engraved when the blank is made or the key is cut. They include a maker's name or logo, short letter and number groups, restriction wording, and sometimes a number tied to a lock system's records. Stamped text looks pressed in, with crisp edges. Because these marks were applied on purpose, they can reflect the key's design.
Added marks come later. Paint, nail polish, a colored cap, tape, a handwritten label, a filed notch, or scratched initials show how someone used or sorted the key. A red cap means something to the household that put it there and nothing to anyone else.
What each kind of marking suggests, and how it misleads
No single head marking confirms a blank. The usual types compare like this.
- Maker's name or logo: points to a family of blanks to start from. A logo can't confirm the keyway, because one maker produces many profiles. It misleads most often on copies, where the head shows the blank maker rather than the lock maker.
- Short letter and number groups: often suggest a blank or keyway type. They can't confirm fit alone, since different blank makers label similar profiles in their own ways. Two unrelated keys can share a short code from different catalogs.
- Longer code-like numbers: sometimes tie the key to records kept by whoever manages the lock system. They rarely tell a cutter the cuts directly, and some are just unit or tag numbers added by a building or office.
- Restriction wording such as "Do Not Duplicate": shows someone wanted copies controlled. The wording alone can't tell you whether the key is mechanically restricted. It misleads both ways, because some keys with the wording are ordinary blanks and some restricted keys carry no such words.
- Added paint, caps, tape, or scratches: show how the key was used. They confirm nothing about its shape, and a cap or sticker can hide stamped text underneath.
How to look at a key head and describe it for a copy
The goal is an exact record of what's on the head, not an interpretation of it.
- Hold the head under good light and tilt it so stamped letters cast a small shadow. Faint stamping often shows only at an angle.
- Check both sides. The back of the head is easy to skip and often carries the letter or number group.
- Write the text exactly as it appears, including spaces, hyphens, and zeros, and leave out any guess about what it means. If a character could be an O or a zero, note both.
- Photograph each side straight on and at an angle, with any removable cap slid off.
- Bring the key itself. A photo helps a locksmith know what to expect, but a copy is cut from the key's blade, not from a picture.
If the head shows restriction wording or marks you don't recognize, say so at the start. Keys on a restricted system are usually cut from blanks that aren't sold openly, which makes them a different request from an ordinary copy. Upper East Locksmith cuts and duplicates keys and works with high-security locks and restricted keys. Call (347) 444-9725 and describe what's on the head before you bring the key in.
Frequently asked questions
If two keys have the same text on the head, can I assume they are the same type?
Two keys with the same head text were probably cut from the same or a similar blank, but the head says nothing about the cuts along the blade. Keys for different locks are routinely cut from one blank type, so matching text often appears on keys that open different doors. Check which lock each key opens before treating them as interchangeable.
Should I clean or mark up a key head before bringing it in?
Wiping a key head with a dry or slightly damp cloth is fine and can make stamped text easier to read. Avoid scraping, sanding, or writing on the head with a marker, since those can wear away or cover factory marks. If you want to label the key, use a removable tag or cap so the original stamping stays visible.
What if the markings on my key head are worn off or unreadable?
Worn or unreadable markings on a key head mostly slow the search for a blank rather than stop it. A blank can still be matched by comparing the blade's profile and groove pattern with candidates. Bring the least worn key you have, since a worn or older copy can carry small errors in its cuts.
Does a key with restriction wording on the head need a different request than an ordinary key?
A key with restriction wording on the head may belong to a controlled system, and controlled systems usually involve whoever manages the locks, such as a property manager or business owner. Mention that person when you make the request. The wording by itself doesn't show whether the blank is restricted, so the blade's profile and any other head marks carry more of the answer.